Simple Cutting Hack for Making T Shirt Quilts

One of our granddaughters was involved in soft ball, band, theater and an assortment of other extra-curricualar events during middle school and high school. So for her birthday, her dad thought it would be fun to create a quilt out of the old t-shirts that she wore as she participated in those activities. He and my daugher asked if I wanted to help. I've made a lot of quilts over the years, but I have never done a t-shirt quilt before. I knew this would be a big project--she has a lot of shirts--and trying to figure out how to cut those soft, stretchy shirts into twenty even squares was a little daunting.

So I spread the shirts out and measured side to side and top to bottom to see if I could figure out what dimension would allow me to include the important patterns on the front without running into the sleeve and neck edges. I ultimately decided that 14 inches was optimal.

But then, how to cut them? I needed to be able to see that 14" square while I cut the t-shirt fronts so that I could center the designs. For most quitlting, the easiest option is use a cutting mat, plastic cutting guide, and a rotary cutter. But I didn't have and couldn't find a template that size, and the smaller templates that I do have are somewhat opaque. I remembered that you can buy fairly thick clear plastic sheets at the hardware store, so I went to Lowes, and, sure enough, they had them in varying sizes. None of them were exactly the size I needed, but the helpful hardware people will cut them to size for you without charge. For $12, I was able to purchase the plastic and have it cut into a 14 x 14" square. (I got to keep the left over pieces. Future projects. . . .?) Not cheap, perhaps, but certainly worth it for the time it saved me.

I cut the backs off each shirt and sent them to a thrift store that recycles fabric. Then I simply placed each front on my cutting board. I didn't have to worry about measuring or straight lines or anything other than having the fabric smooth. I centered my plastic template over the emblem on the t-shirt that I wanted to highlight in the square:

Using my rotary cutter, all I had to do was cut around the template:

Voila! I hope the rest of the process goes as smoothly. . . .

Easy Strip Quilt

Laurel's oldest is ready for a big boy bed, so it was time to make him a fun new quilt. As I thought about what to make and how to make it, I remembered a technique that my Mom learned from one of her sisters and then taught to me several years ago. It allows you to construct a quilt--backing, batting, and front--strip by strip so that by the time you finish the last strip, all that you have to do is trim the raw side and bottom edges and sew on the binding. No quilting or tying is necessary. This is how I did it:

My quilt information said that twin size comforters--to be used with a bed skirt--should measure about 68 by 86 inches. I chose six coordinating fabrics based on these three prints . . .

and, after prewashing, cut four of the fabrics into 9 by 9 inch squares. I needed 8 squares of each of the four fabrics. Then I sewed 8 of the squares into a strip, using 1/4" seam allowances to create four of the required twelve strips. Iron the seams flat. I made four of these strips, changing the pattern by one block each time. (I decided to do these block strips for added interest, but if you want an easier quilt, simply skip the blocks and use 12 solid strips.)

I also cut eight solid strips--four green and four white with matching green dots which alternated with the block strips. For the back, I used a solid brown, flat queen sized sheet--which I prewashed.  Out of the sheet, I cut twelve, 9 x 68 inch strips. This shows a backing strip and each of the three different strips that I used for the front:

 I also cut twelve, 9 x 68 inch strips of batting:

The magical thing about this quilt is that you can use up odds and ends of batting that are left over from other quilting projects. If the pieces weren't quite long enough, I simply basted them together:

Now the fun begins. Lay out your strips in the pattern you prefer, and, starting from the top, begin the layering process. Stack your first backing strip and your first top strip with right sides together. Place a strip of batting on top and pin along the top seam line:

Using a walking foot, sew your seam through all layers. To be honest, despite the fact that I have made many quilts, this is the first time I have used a walking foot. My old Viking didn't have one, but my newer machine does. They are amazing. They keep the many layers from bunching and stretching. This is what mine looks like:

Unpin, trim, and then turn so that the front is on top, the batting is in the middle, and the back is on the bottom. I pinned the finished edge just to hold everything in place and then pinned the bottom, raw edge and ran a basting seam to secure it while I added the next layer. (For sewing newbies, you can machine baste by using the longest straight stitch setting on your machine. The stitches hold things in place temporarily but come out easily. It is an extra step, but it makes things so much easier in the long run.)

Create the second strip by placing your completed strip on top of your second quilt top strip, right sides of top strips together. Place a quilt back strip on top of the completed quilt back strip, right sides together, and a strip of batting on top of everything. Pin raw edges.

Sew through all layers, unpin, trim, and turn:

Continue the same process for ten more strips. Pin and baste the final, bottom raw edge in preparation for the binding. For me, the trickiest part was trimming the raw side edges to make everything square and straight. I don't even know what to tell you; good luck with that. (Hopefully, Laurel won't measure eveything.) I cut 4 1/2 inch binding strips out of the left over backing sheet, folded them in half, and then ironed a crease to create a 2 1/4 inch binding. I pinned and sewed the  raw edge of the binding onto the right side of the quilt sides and bottoms using the machine to sew through all layers. (Be sure to tuck in and stitch across the raw edges of the binding at the ends.) Then I folded the binding over to the back, pinned it, and stitched the folded edge of the binding in place by hand. You can machine stitch this as well; it will just make an extra seam on the front side of your quilt.

I used left over pieces to create matching pillow cases. The only twin size bed I have is a bunk so the pictures aren't perfect, but, hopefully, they will give you an idea of what the finished quilt looks like:

Sleep sweet, little man.

DIY Child's Tulle Skirt

There are both advantages and disadvantages to being the odd one out of the three sisters. Both Elin and Delys are tall and slender as ballerinas, while I am curvy and three or four inches shorter. It's nice that I end up with several dresses by default when they end up being too short for my model-height siblings. However, I'm still 5'7", but my relative dwarfism tricks my family sometimes into thinking I am child-size. Such was the case when my mom bought me this tiny dress.

It was wildly on sale or maybe second-hand, if I recall, and she knows I like ivory and lace, but it wouldn't have fit me when I was twelve, and much less now. Still, before I sent it to the thrift store, it struck me that it would make a darling skirt for my niece. She's four-years-old and loves princesses and dress-up, as all four-year-old girls should. Further, she started a dance class, and I thought she'd look angelic prancing around in this soft, tu-tuesque material.

So I scoured the internet and found this tutorial from Make It & Love It. My skirt is much easier to make than starting from scratch. It already has an inner lining and an outer skirt of soft tulle. I looked at sizing charts and decided to cut the skirt long (my niece takes after her mother: tall.) I cut 14 inches off the bottom of both layers of the dress.

Then, per the tutorial, I sewed a gathering stitch around the top of both layers. Unlike the tutorial, I sewed two gathering stitches on each layer of the skirt. I found the material unwieldy, and it was helpful to do it the "correct" way for a more even gather. (For more on gathering stitches, look at her explanation here.)

I wanted a thick waistband at the top, and I set out to find one in an interesting color. Side note from an inexperienced sewer: why are the only 2-inch elastic options black and white? I really thought gold would be so pretty and Christmasy, but after searching high and low, I went with black. Still very cute, of course, but I was slightly disappointed. With the measurement I had from Elin (22 inches, measured around the bellybutton), I cut my 2 inch elastic into 2, 22.5 inch pieces. I stitched each piece together into a circle a quarter inch away from each edge. I inserted one elastic circle into the other ("wrong" sides facing each other and seams lined up and pressed flat). I then carefully zig-zagged around one side of my elastic circle. This is the top of the skirt.

This creates an elastic pocket of sorts into which I could insert the skirt! With a little wrangling, I used my gathering stiches to gather the inner and outer skirts to a 22 inch circumference, evening out the gathering as I went. I then carefully inserted my layered skirt into the bottom of the elastic. This part is tricky; the gathered skirt is thick. I used about 1000 pins to secure the skirt evenly into the band before attempting to zigzag around the bottom of the waistband. Insert mom's comment:

"So you used a ballpoint needle, right?"

"A what?"

"A ballpoint needle? That would be more appropriate for sewing elastic and stretchy fabric."

Mom, of course I don't know what a ballpoint needle is. In fact, I'm pretty sure the needle in my machine is the same one you put in when you brought it to me. I realized it probably was getting dull; I had no idea I needed a special needle. Not until I started sewing this last part, that is; I'm afraid the stitches are a little loopy on the inside of the waistband. No one can see this, of course, but it's aggravating. Follow mum's advice and get a ballpoint needle (whatever that is.)

Still, I feel like a million bucks about the skirt (as I always do after a successful sewing venture.

I was a little worried about giving this as a Christmas present, though. Elin suggested that I try get something non-toy for her little girl, and I appreciate the sentiment. My own Patches has so many toys, and I know he will get more from loving family members this December.

Still, out of worry that my niece would be disappointed to get clothes, I decided to accessorize. I added a princess tiara and wand from dollar tree and decided to make a purse out of the top of the dress. I couldn't find a simple tutorial I liked online, so I decided to make it up! I basically turned the bodice inside out, drew a purse shape on one side, pinned it, sewed along my purse outline (twice), and then cut it out. The top of the purse used to be the neckline of the dress, and the shoulder straps became a purse strap. Add a tulle bow, and voila!

I hope she likes it!

Decorating With Canvas Drop Cloths

Recently, I have gotten excited about canvas drop cloths. They are heavy-duty, inexpensive, come in a variety of sizes, have a wonderful, organic texture, and they are readily available at both Lowes and Home Depot. (There are some quirky down sides to the cloths which I will cover below.) I have seen them used in magazines, mostly in outdoor settings. But I have brought them inside--into our master bedroom.

Our room has a couple of nooks and crannies. One of them is a step-up area with a large archway. I didn't want to block the light that comes through the windows up there, but I also liked the idea of being able to temporarily shut off the space when I want to. (Our ugly exercise equipment is up there, yuck, and I also wanted it to be a fun, hide-away/sleeping area while our grandchildren were here for Christmas.) So I measured the opening, put up a sturdy curtain rod (on the inside of the arch so it is hidden from the rest of the room), and purchased curtain hooks with clips for ease in hanging:

One of the potential down-sides of the large drop cloths is that they have a seam running through them, Fortunately, on the ones I purchased, whomever designed them decided to use french seams, so there are no raw edges. And, frankly, I kind of like the rustic look. As I mentioned, these cloths are heavy, so be sure to anchor your curtain rods in the studs or use toggle bolts. The drywall mounts and screws I used were not sturdy enough.

I was also ready to change out my dark and dated bedding and curtains. So I sewed two drop cloths together and created a bedspread. (Another drawback to the heaviness of this fabric is that it is awkward to sew. Use a heavy duty needle.) I inherited some hand-blocked cotton bedspreads that my family purchased and used while were living in Iran in the early 60's. They show their age a bit, but I think that they make perfect curtains for the window in the upper part of the room:

Another heirloom from Iran, a hand-blocked, cotton tablecloth, adds pattern and color to the bottom of the bed. Again, you can see the seams in the bedspread, but they don't bother me:

I call the look Bedouin shabby chic :)

Quiet Book of Wonder

Alright friends: As you may recall, we three sisters and our mother engaged in a quiet book page swap last Christmas. The idea was that it’s easier to make 3 of a few pages to share rather than create 10 unique pages all by oneself. And yes, it took me several months to actually sew and bind mine together. Still, I learned to sew buttonholes in the process! Hooray! One more new sewing machine skill I can chalk up, right? But I digress...

There are some amazingly cute quiet books out there, aren’t there? Some are so beautiful! And time-intensive… and even kind of expensive. Our particular venture was not to be that kind of book. We wanted something fun and cute but also something simple that wouldn't break the bank. So without further ado:

The Cute, Quick, Inexpensive Quiet Book of Wonder

Elin's Armor of God Page

Mom's Magnet Board

Mom's Tic-Tac-Toe and Gumball Pages

Mom's Mr. Potato Head

Mom's Stoplight and Laurel's Baseball Glove

Laurel's Clock Page

Quiet Book Page: Gumball Machine

Like the stoplight page, this page is wonderful for SourPatch's fine motor movement. He's still happy just pulling off the gumballs and putting them back in any little circle. As he gets a little older, he'll enjoy matching the numbers, too.

And me? Mostly I think this page is adorable.

Quiet Book Page: Tic-Tac-Toe

For the older bunch, this is a brilliant way to keep kids quiet and engaged! I was skeptical that the swinging pouch would actually keep the Xs and Os in place, but I have been pleasantly pleased! It would be easy to add another zippered holder like the one on mom's Mr. Potato Head page if desired.

Quiet Book Page: Stoplight

This one is a keeper. It's just the right size for thick, not-quite-two-years-old fingers that are learning dexterity, color, and shapes. Good work, mum.

Quiet Book Page: Mr. Potato Head

Classic page, mom. SourPatch loves it, despite not actually knowing where to put the pieces yet. I love how you used a zippered pouch to hold the pieces. A toddler like Patches can enjoy the zipper and bright pieces. Then, when he is older, he can make fun faces with his two-dimensional potato head. It's a page that will grow with him.

Quiet Book Page: Clock

This page is kind of experimental. All I did was buy foam clocks from the dollar section of Target and stitch them into place, I am a little worried about their durability, but SourPatch hasn't pulled the foam hands off of his book so far! And much to my surprise, this was the page my niece was SO excited about (she is learning to tell time). All of the kids were pretty enthusiastic actually... go figure. Sometimes it's the simple things...

Quiet Book Page: Armor of God

Oh my cute. Elin, you did a marvelous job on this page based off of Doctrine and Covenants 27:15-18. It's one of SourPatch's favorites.